Propeller Data for 3 cell Lipo batteries:

Weight = 2.0 ounces (57 grams) Diameter = 1.2 inch (31mm) Total Length = 2.4 inch (62mm)

Heads Up RC Brushless Motor Guide

When choosing a brushless motor for your plane, keep in mind that you will usually get better efficiency with larger propellers. Please see the individual motor listings for more information and suggested uses. All data presented is with the use of 3-cell Lipo batteries.

Motors with less than 15 ounces of thrust

2210-25	0.8 ounce 2500KV motor providing up to 12.5 oz of thrust at 8.5 amps using a 5 inch prop. Nice for use as a pusher motor, and for small, fast, sleek models.
2210-21	0.8 ounce 2100KV motor providing up to 12.5 oz of thrust at 8.5 amps using a 6 inch prop. Also works with the GWS 7035 (7 inch) prop if you avoid constant wide open throttle. Nice pusher motor and great for use with small, light weight models up to about 16 ounces

Motors with 21 to 25 ounces of thrust

2408-21	1.6 ounce 1750KV motor providing up to 22 oz of thrust at 14 amps using an 8 inch prop. This motor is best used for medium to high speed parkflyers, and is widely used on the GWS Warbirds with the GWS 8040 prop. And with it's ability to produce plenty of thrust with 7 inch props, it is often used as a pusher motor. It is the lightest, but also least efficient motor in the 2400 series. Uses 6 to 8 inch props.
2410-12D	2.1 ounce1530KV motor providing up to 23 oz of thrust at 12 amps using a 9 inch prop. This has become one of my best sellers - and rightly so! It matches up perfectly with the GWS 9050 prop, and makes for an excellent GWS Warbird motor. It works well on many models where a 9 inch prop is desirable. Best used with 8 and 9 inch props.
2410-08Y	2.1 ounce 1260KV motor providing up to 23 oz of thrust at 11 amps using a 10 inch prop. This motor works great with the GWS 1060 prop, and is a good choice for medium speed parkflyers and sport aerobatic planes. If you can use up to a 10 inch prop on your model and are looking for longer flight times, choosing this motor makes a lot of sense. This is my motor choice for the GWS BEAVER and ESTARTER. It's also a good choice for the smaller 3D flyers when matched with the GWS 1047 or APC 10x3.8 props. Uses 9 and 10 inch props.
2410-09Y	2.0 ounce 1100KV motor providing up to 24 oz of thrust at 11 amps using an 11 inch prop. This motor is becoming more and more popular due to it's efficiency. This is my choice for the GWS SLOW STICK, using the GWS 1147 prop. Many flyers use this on 3D planes and the big slow flyers. Uses 10 and 11inch props

The 'normal' type of motor that you are probably familiar with is referred to as an 'inrunner', and the armature (stator) of the motor rotates inside the motor while the outer case of the motor stays fixed. An 'outrunner' motor has an inner stator that is stationary, while the outer case rotates. This design allows relatively low RPM with very high torque, eliminating the need for a gearbox. Outrunners are also 'brushless', meaning their are no mechanical contact points to wear out. The only wearpoints in an outrunner motor are the two bearings on the shaft.

The KV rating of a motor indicates the motor's 'no load' speed per applied volt. For instance, a 900KV motor will spin at approximately 900 rpm per applied volt. If you connect a fully charged Lipo battery (12.6 volts) to a 900KV motor it will spin at about 11,340 rpm (12.6 x 900) with no propeller attached. The KV rating is determined by the number and type of motor windings, and is a main factor in determining what size propeller can be used on a motor. The higher the KV rating, the smaller the prop that can be used, all things being equal. Compare the 2410 motors - they are identical except for different motor windings that give them different KV ratings: the 2410-09Y is 1100KV and spins an 11 inch prop, the 2410-08Y is 1260KV and spins a 10 inch prop, and the 2410-12D is 1530KV and spins a 9 inch prop (all using a 3-cell Lipo).

The 'watts per pound' method of choosing a motor is often used, but it's a little complex and confusing to some people. I prefer a simpler method - 'thrust to weight' ratio. For this method, you need to know two things: the actual amount of thrust a motor will produce, and the estimated weight of the plane. I provide thrust data for all of the motors that I sell, and the all up weight of a model is usually fairly easy to determine. Most models will fly with about a 50% thrust to weight ratio, so a 20 oz model would need about 10 oz of thrust to fly at a very modest level of performance. I prefer at least an 80% thrust to weight ratio, so a 20 oz plane would require 16 oz of thrust, and would fly rather nicely. Even better is a 100% thrust to weight ratio, and this is what I recommend for trainer type planes. You want plenty of thrust to get you out of trouble, and a low pitch prop to keep the speed down. For unlimited vertical performance and 3D flying, I suggest at least a 120% thrust to weight ratio, so you would want at least 24 oz of thrust with a 20 oz plane. This high level of performance is easy to achieve with today’s brushless motors and Lipo batteries. When choosing your motor, keep in mind that outrunners that spin larger propellers are generally more efficient.

The ESC functions as the main control between the motor and receiver. It works like this: You send a signal to the receiver via your transmitter, the receiver then sends a signal to the ESC, and the ESC responds by providing the appropriate level of electric power to the motor. The battery pack plugs directly into the ESC, and the ESC usually powers the motor plus the receiver and servos via a Battery Elimination Circuit (BEC). This eliminates the need for a separate battery to power your receiver and servos. This sounds a bit complicated, but it's really pretty simple once you see the components properly connected. The ESC has a standard servo type plug that connects to channel 3 of the receiver, and there are 3 wires on the end of the ESC that connect to the 3 wires on the brushless motor. There are also 2 wires for the battery connection on the ESC. When choosing an ESC for your motor, you need to know the expected amp draw with the propeller you intend to use. You want an ESC that is rated for a higher amp draw than what the motor/prop combination uses. I provide amp draw data for several commonly used propellers for each motor.

Most of the motors I sell provide their best level of performance with 3-cell Lithium Polymer (Lipo) batteries. You will need a battery that provides at least as many amps as the motor/prop combination requires. It is best to choose a battery that is rated for quite a few more amps than what you expect to draw. The batteries physical size and weight needs to be considered, along with the battery capacity (mah). Higher capacity batteries provide longer flight times, but are also bigger and heavier.

This problem is usually caused by the propeller that is out of balance. For the larger slow fly propellers such as the GWS EP1047 and EP1147, you can usually do a fairly good job of balancing by simply using a very small screwdriver inserted through the prop hub to determine which end of the prop is lightest, and then adding some 5 minute epoxy on that end. For high RPM applications, it's best to use a prop balancer in order to obtain the needed accuracy.

Most of the motors that have a 3mm threaded shaft come with very small prop nuts that do not fit the hub recess on some of the GWS props. The prop will fit anyway - there are two ways to mount them. You can put a prop nut on the shaft first, followed by the prop, and then a washer, and then the other prop nut. When you tighten the prop nut securely, friction will prevent the prop from spinning on the shaft. The other method is to simply put the prop right up against the motor bell flange. You simply put the prop on (with no nut installed first), and then follow it with a washer and the securing prop nut. The whole front of the motor (the 'bell' or 'rotor') spins anyway, so this works fine. Just be certain the bell flange set screws are very tight - something you should check anyway.

The answer is that the wire colours don't matter. Simply hook up the three wires on one end of the ESC to the three motor wires - any order. If the motor spins the wrong direction, simply switch any two of the motor/ESC wires. Be sure to hook up the Red wire and the Black wire on the other end of the ESC to your battery with the correct polarity - Red is positive, Black is negative. And the long 3 strand wire with the connector gets plugged into the throttle channel of your receiver (usually channel 3).

This is the most common problem that crops up, and usually the answer is that the Lipo is "sagging" to 9 volts under load, where the ESC cuts off the motor. You may be using the wrong prop on the motor and drawing too many amps, or you may be using a Lipo that doesn't have a high enough amp rating, or the Lipo may be somewhat defective or over rated (very common). The easiest way to check out the problem is to hook a voltage meter to your Lipo and run the motor up slowly to see at what voltage the cut-off is occurring. If you don't have a meter to check for this, you can use your transmitter to program the ESC for NiMh batteries (see the ESC instruction sheet). This lowers the cut-off voltage, so the problem should disappear. However, you wouldn't want to run your Lipos all the way down with the ESC set like this.

No. There are certain brands of receivers that cause the servos to move to the extreme position at any loss of signal. To test for this, turn on the transmitter and plug in your battery. After testing for proper control movements, turn your transmitter off to simulate loss of signal. The servos should stay in their current position. If the servos chatter or jump to an extreme position, you should consider using a different receiver. Two reasonably priced receivers that work well for me in my park fliers are the Hitec Micro 05S and the Cirrus MRX-4 II. These are both autoshift receivers, so they will work with all FM 72MHz transmitters. They also accept the universal "S" type connector and the Futaba "J" type connector.

APC 11x3.8SF	prop produces about 24 ounces of thrust at 10.5 amps with a pitch speed of 21 mph.
APC 11x4.7SF	prop produces about 24 ounces of thrust at 11.5 amps with a pitch speed of 25 mph.
APC 11x5.5E	prop produces about 23 ounces of thrust at 10.5 amps with a pitch speed of 32 mph.
APC 11x7E	prop produces about 22 ounces of thrust at 11.5 amps with a pitch speed of 41 mph.
APC 10x3.8SF	prop produces about 22 ounces of thrust at 10 amps with a pitch speed of 23 mph.
APC 10x4.7SF	prop produces about 22 ounces of thrust at 10 amps with a pitch speed of 28 mph.
GWS EP1047	prop produces about 22 ounces of thrust at 9.5 amps with a pitch speed of 28 mph.
APC 10x5E	prop produces about 21 ounces of thrust at 8.5 amps with a pitch speed of 32 mph.
GWS EP1060	prop produces about 20 ounces of thrust at 8.5 amps with a pitch speed of 37 mph.
APC 10x7SF	prop produces about 21 ounces of thrust at 12 amps with a pitch speed of 35 mph.
APC 10x7E	prop produces about 20 ounces of thrust at 10 amps with a pitch speed of 41 mph.
Master Airscrew 10x7	3-blade prop produces about 22 ounces of thrust at 10.5 amps with a pitch speed of 37 mph. Great for scale looks and good speed.
GWS EP1080	prop produces about 20 ounces of thrust at 11.5 amps with a pitch speed of 40 mph.
GWS HD1080	prop produces about 17 ounces of thrust at 10.5 amps with a pitch speed of 41 mph.
Master Airscrew 9x7	3-blade prop produces about 18 ounces of thrust at 9 amps with a pitch speed of 41 mph.

APC 12x3.8SF	prop produces about 15 ounces of thrust at 7 amps with a pitch speed of 14 mph.
GWS EP1260	prop produces about 17 ounces of thrust at 8 amps with a pitch speed of 21 mph.
GWS EP1147	prop produces about 14 ounces of thrust at 6.5 amps with a pitch speed of 18 mph.
GWS EP1180	prop produces about 15 ounces of thrust at 8 amps with a pitch speed of 27 mph.

2712-12	1.0 ounce 1100KV motor providing up to 18 oz of thrust at 9 amps using a 9 inch prop. Great for smaller parkflyers like the GWS Pico series, and as an upgrade to the GWS IPS motors. Uses 7 to 9 inch props. I get LOTS of positive comments on this motor!
2410-12Y	2.1 ounce 970KV motor providing up to 19 ounces of thrust at 7.5 amps using a 12 inch prop. This low KV motor uses 11 to12 inch props and is often used for slow flyers and 3D planes.

2409-12T	2.3 ounce 1600KV motor providing up to 32 oz of thrust at 22.5 amps with a 9 inch prop. With it's combination of high speed, high thrust and low cost, this motor has become very popular for warbirds and sport planes. Makes a great pusher motor on the Parkzone Stryker, Multiplex Easy Star, and Zagi. Uses 7 to 9 inch props.
2836-10	2.6 ounce 1100KV motor providing up to 38 oz of thrust at 22.5 amps with a 10 inch prop. An excellent choice for the larger parkflyers. Lighter than a speed 400 brushed/geared motor, but produces twice the thrust! Uses 8 to 10 inch props.